RESEARCH
FREEDOM - THEME OF MAGAZINE
DEFENITION
1. the power or right to act, speak, or think as one wants.
2. the state of not being imprisoned or enslaved.
3. the state of not being subject to or affected by (something undesirable).
4. familiarity or openness in speech or behaviour.
SYNONYMS
right to, entitlement to; privilege, prerogative, due, exemption, immunity, dispensation, exception, exclusion, release, relief, reprieve, absolution, exoneration; impunity; naturalness, openness, lack of reserve/inhibition, casualness, informality, lack of ceremony, spontaneity, ingenuousness
AIM/PURPOSE OF FASHION MAGAZINES
https://daily.jstor.org/birth-fashion-magazines/
One magazine explained that its features on fashion and decorating had “the aim of being useful to others, who are prevented by duties or distance from visiting those houses where the best of everything is to be seen.”
http://www.answers.com/Q/What_are_the_purposes_of_advertisement#slide=1
Purpose of a magazine is so that consumers remain familiar with the brand
Alessio Bolzoni
Bolzoni's work is of particularly of interest to me because of his confidence to extensively explore angles and framing techniques in his photographic work. The peculiar poses and use of colour make his work very attractive to the eye due to their unusual nature. To me the work communicates breaking boundaries and feeling confident enough to explore unconventional photography techniques. In fashion photography while the clothes being displayed and of high importance the model wearing them is just as important. This is because of the way the clothes would sit on the model, the attitude of the model and the relation of the model to the brand. by removing this recognisable feature we are forced to engage solely in the garments and the components of the image. in this case SHAPE and FRAME. I feel like had these images not have been framed as they are the shapes would have been less evident and thus less striking.
The work he did below for Krisvanassche communicates rebellion and noncompliance.
Regarding the photograph in the middle it is the posture pose and focus of the models eyes that intrigues me most. A lot of photographers seek to exhibit simplicity within their photos. 'Less is more'. I in the past have been told by a tutor that having your models leg up in the air looks silly, and therefore since i have not done it again. As a person who likes to break the rules and stretch the boundaries, i'm not saying im going to go and get my model to hold their leg up but i'm definitely going to explore more unconventional poses in order to express freedom against conventionality.
Rankin
Rankin's work is similar to that of Alessio Bolzoni. The fact that there the negative space is minimal and the colours are bright means that the model becomes the centre of focus. These pieces inform my work because to be free you need to focus on yourself and what reduces the conscious care of what others think. You are the centre of importance much like the model due to the scale in the photo. The use of colour creates confidence as colours are bright and very noticeable. If the same photos were to be taken but the models were wearing monochrome they would have less effect. The photos would be as eye catching or engaging.
SHIONA TURINI - STYLIST
Styled with Joseph Errico
To me this piece communicates the strengths of the relationship between women
I love the skin tones and the nude coloured garments because it represents the natural human body. The piece make me feel calm, relaxed and supported. Reminds me that you don't need to go through any troubles you have alone but instead you are able to confide in others to disperse the load. The close proximity and relaxed nature of the models suggests the close body they all have with eachother. Location looks as though it is in a house, which makes the girls appear even more comfortable and homely with one another.
This links to my work because it emphasises how one can can share their stresses and feel free within that aspect if they are able to stop holding all their stresses and worries inside and instead let them out.
So i have just read No.347 (Spring 2017 )The Family Values Issue of i-D magazine and have been hugely inspired.
I had seen these photos earlier in the week when I went to the Wolfgang Tillmans exhibition but Below are some photos from the zine and my comments.
*problems with workflow - photos rotate on insertion*
I am fond of the use of lighting in these photos. Light is often a metaphor for freedom. This is because things that are brought to light are no longer hidden but instead are exposed and visible by all.
(Examples of light symbolising freedom:
- Martin Luther King's 'I have a dream' speech - "Joyous daybreak" ending the "long night of their captivity," which uses light to symbolise freedom and night to represent enslavement. (Martin Luther King Speech reference)
Page 193 - 201 Photography - Wolfgang Tillmans
The use of lighting by Wolfgang Tillmans sprung to mind the dance performance piece 'Swansong' By Christopher Bruce. I studied it back in GCSE Dance where i obtained an A ;) But besides the point the light here symbolised freedom from being a 'prisoner of conscience'.
This work communicates going against the norms of society. Thought the partial nudity and the shoot being conducted in and office there is a huge juxtaposition going on here. An office is seen as a professional place where suits and smart clothing are worn. Therefore according to the status quo of the office environment, she is very inappropriately dressed. By the model lifting up the back of her dress exposing her bum and having a top on that solely covers the center of her back, she is bringing social and homelike activities into a business environment. It's interesting that there are expectations of dress according to where you are. I guess in this sense the photos communicate that you shouldn't feel obliged to stick to the traditional way you are expected to dress. Instead, you should break the rules and make a statement. I think these photographs could have been interesting with a couple office people in the background. Although perhaps not. Perhaps the photographer solely intended for the office to be empty so it looks like she has snuck in and she is being caught on camera. The angles in which each of the photos has been taken are what make me think he has been 'caught'. the above angle in the top two and the bottom left photo make me think this but also the lack of eye contact in photos 1&4. the other tow are like she's been caught and is just like 'what do you want?' This source inform my work because It links to the quote 'don't bend, don't water it down, don't try to make it logical, don't edit your own soul according to the fashion' Physically representing a woman being bold in the way she wants to dress by break almost socially mandatory rules.
Below are some snippets from the article I read. I knew the extent of men bottling up emotions as the extent is equal to like 99% of men (I'm Exaggerating} but I hadn't internalised it. Statistics show that:
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6,188 suicides were registered in the UK and 451 in the Republic of Ireland.
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The highest suicide rate in the UK was for men aged 40–44.
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The highest suicide rate in the Republic of Ireland was for men aged 25–34 (with an almost identical rate for men aged 45–54).
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Rates have increased in the UK (by 3.8%), England (by 2%), Wales (61.8%) and Northern Ireland (18.5%) since 2014 – however increases in Wales and Northern Ireland may be explained by inconsistencies in the processes for recording suicides in these countries.
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Rates have decreased in Scotland (by 1.4%) and the Republic of Ireland (by 13.1%) since 2014.
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There were 6,639 suicides in the UK and Republic of Ireland.
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In England and the UK, female suicide rates are at their highest in a decade.
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Male rates remain consistently higher than female suicide rates across the UK and Republic of Ireland – most notably 5 times higher in Republic of Ireland and around 3 times in the UK.
It's just a thought but potentially the increase in sucide rates could be related to how much suicide has been brought into the media in the last few years. Obviously this was unavoidable because we live in a day and age whereby everything even a act getting stuck in a tree gets featured in the News; but besides the point. Suicide rates are rising and it is destroying to see. The article gives the reader insight into real life testimonies and suggestions for suspecting if a man is bottling up emotions waiting for them to completely explode. This relates to my project because of the shoot I did with Confz and his response to my one of the questions I asked him. I could give information on suicidal rates etc but thats already on the internet. Instead I want to make these spreads in my magazine to be a straight forward way to knowing how to access help. Im going to include a range of ways one can go about releasing their body from the toxic emotion buildup with them. I would focus this article on both genders but I feel that because the topic of suicide lays more frequently in the line of the male gender that I should make it more relatable to them.
The original plan was ^ but ive changed it because i feel that because my magazine is more directed to young black females that this would mean going off track. i think that touching on the topic is enough to proke someone to research on it if they so choose to.
'The female brain is hardwired for empathy, says Simon Baron-Cohen, professor of developmental psychopathology at Cambridge University, and the male brain for quite the opposite – understanding and building systems, which suggests that articulating their feelings goes against the grain.
‘On top of that,’ adds Lucy Beresford, ‘when boys are turning into young men and trying to work out who they are, they look around and see that men don’t talk. So they don’t either.’
This was true for Alan, 35, an events organiser who slipped into alcoholism and had a breakdown, before finally opening up about the stresses of his job.
‘The problem for men is pride,’ says Alan. ‘We learn it from our fathers. They go out there, earn money, they don’t cry, they cope.’
Although Alan had a successful career and marriage, he was struggling with life. ‘My job involved a lot of partying and being very up, even when I felt tired and miserable,’ he says. ‘Everyone thought I was this big man, and I couldn’t say, “It’s an act, I can’t do the job – I’m terrified each new project will be the one that fails…”
'I couldn’t tell my wife because when we met I’d been young and arrogant, I could cope with everything – that’s who she’d signed up for. You don’t want to tell your friends because all they want to know is that you’re feeling ace and driving a BMW. Men find failure contagious.’
Things came to a head only when Alan pulled over one day – in his BMW – unable to go to work. He rang his wife, in tears, and she came to find him.
Intensive psychotherapy followed, Alan was diagnosed an alcoholic (he hasn’t drunk in four years) and he changed his job. But his marriage is still strong.
‘I tell my wife loads of stuff – not the little details she tells me, but the important bits,’ he says. ‘I think men are more inclined to find one woman and share that stuff with her. They don’t have the larger support group women have.’
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Possible warning signals include a further withdrawal from family and friends, a loss of interest in things he normally cares about, an increased cynicism about the world, a change in appearance, eating or sleeping habits and acting in a hostile or irrational way.
‘Doctors are telling them they’ll have a heart attack if they don’t “let it all out”, employers are suddenly looking for “emotional intelligence”, and women want them to be more open.
'At the same time, though, they’re still expected to be strong in times of crisis. Women don’t really want men collapsing in tears when we need them. I think we’re building an image of an impossible person and it has left men confused.’
How to get your man to talk
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First, respect his way of coping and allow him to react differently. The classic pattern to avoid is when the woman demands to know what a man is feeling, causing him to withdraw further.
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Encourage the outlets he has for coping with stress — even if they don’t involve expressing emotion. This could be sport, work, seeing his friends.
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Don’t make the classic mistake of booking a table in a restaurant and expecting him to tell all. Men instinctively prefer privacy and often talk better while doing something — going for a walk, painting the bathroom.
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Give invitations to talk — but never pressure. It’s important that men feel supported. So try, ‘I know it’s a difficult time. I’m here if you need to talk about it. I care about what you’re feeling and how you are…’
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Signs that you should look for external help for him include a loss of interest in things he would normally care about, phrases such as ‘nothing matters’ and ‘I’d be better off dead’, a change in weight, appearance and sleeping habits and acting in a risky, self-destructive manner.
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Accredited coaches can be found by visiting associationforcoaching.com. To find male counsellors who specialise in counselling men go to bacp.co.uk. Young men in crisis can also contact Calm for help and support on 0800 585858 or thecalmzone.net
Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/you/article-1079140/Why-men-suffer-silence.html#ixzz4eGGMRSMB
Follow us: @MailOnline on Twitter | DailyMail on FacebookMen find failure contagious.’
This article was interesting as it broadened my knowledge of the subject area regarding me and why they may not choose to speak about their emotions as openly as women. I can relate to having male friends who didnt speak out as much I knew it was related to the standard idea of what attributes a 'real' man should have but i didn't really understand why they actt he way they do. An important point is made that ‘Doctors are telling them they’ll have a heart attack if they don’t “let it all out”, employers are suddenly looking for “emotional intelligence”, and women want them to be more open.' It's like a battle of who do i please. Most of the time I guess its just easier for men to keep everything in because theres no real downfall besides their mental health which no one can really see. It's a shame that it is not acceptable for men to open up the way women because its not fair. This suggests that there is an inequality that has always existed that favours women, but no one really realises.
After all, other components of masculinity—like aggressiveness, dominance, competitiveness—have some biological roots in boys. Even before birth, males have far higher testosterone levels than females, and this contributes to different temperaments seen very early in life, independent of socialization. On average, young boys are more impulsive, physically active, and have more intense emotional highs than young girls.
These characteristics actually seem inconsistent with greater male stoicism, suggesting that this last component of masculinity is more a product of socialization. Further, the “cool, calm, and collected” image is held as a manly ideal across many cultures, so there’s probably some reason it gets socialized, rather than being a random quirk of culture. So why is stoicism bound up with masculinity?
https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/the-narcissus-in-all-us/201604/why-bottling-emotions-is-central-masculinity
As I will be exploring the insecurities you young female through interviews i thought It would be good to start by researching the top insecurities possessed by insecurities. There are quite a few insecurities on this list that I hadn't expected. For example: Eye colour/ Hair colour and age. While i knew these things do bother some women I didn't realise the extent to which they bothered women and that they were in fact considered insecurities. I think we forget how vastly inclusive the definition of an insecurity can be. The term insecurity defines: 'an uncertainty or anxiety about oneself; lack of confidence'
15 MOST COMMON INSECURITIES IN WOMEN
1.) Sexuality:
2.) Age:
3.) Weight:
4.) Hair colour:
5.) Eye colour:
6.) Height:
7.) Breast size:
8.) He will not call me back:
9.) He just want to sleep with me:
10.) He’s dating other women:
11.) He’s not attracted to me anymore:
12.) Money:
13.) Career:
14.) Creative life:
15.) Intellectual life:
http://www.womenio.com/460/15-most-common-insecurities-in-women
The vetements Jeans above are an example of Fabric Freedom at it's finest. Through this alternative approach to using the traditional zip faster, usual parts of the body are exposed. The jeans are cool because usually you would expect the zip to end just before the crutch. Its kind of like a play on the functionality of the jeans. We usually have to pull down our trousers togo to the toilet. With these jeans you are totally free to use the zip and let loose without letting your trousers loose. If that doesn't say freedom then I don't know what doe. Whats more the jeans add a sexual touch. Prior to this Vetements and Levi's collaboration skinny jeans were as sexy as jeans got. With these jeans sex just got easier, no need to struggle with belts and buttons because this one zip allows full access to wherever one needs to go. The Garment that I made don't exactly have the functionality aspect to them but I guess The jumper I edited with the shoulder and wrist embroidery allow extra air to breeze in and out incase one gets too hot.
These short clips posted on Instagram by dazed and confused link to my work because they are an alternative way of exploring people's interpretation of freedom. The choice of colour background appeals to me because of its bright nature. Bright colours insinuate happiness while monochrome colours suggest dullness. They encourage what he is saying to pop.
By using video you are able to see exactly who is speaking and get a deeper understanding of the personality/character that is speaking on what makes them feel free. Th movement of the body, the colour of the hair, accent in their voice help you you build an almost real life picture of the person so you can better understand what they are saying.
Why we have hairy armpits
I-D LUXURY ISSUE 2016
After looking at many magazines I have found that a lot of them have a running theme throughout. For example I-D's Luxury issue of 2016. Below are for photographs from the issue itself that i found most appealing.
I like the first page because of the boldness the relationship between the text and the photo. The distinct font for the Paul Smith brand laid on top of the image in solid white resembles a pencil drawing with text created by writing with a rubber. The handwriting creates a notion of freedom in the sense that the font is unconventional.
The second page is pleasing to the eye due to the juxtaposition between the full bleed photo and minimalist page it is paired with. The non-chalant pose and denim outfit fit well with the blue colour scheme as blue connotes 'casual and coolness'. The short phrase placed centrally on the page above the angel emoji allows readers of todays generation to heavily relate to the campaign as emojis play a huge part in todays mediums of communication.
I often overlook text unless it is compelling; therefore compelling it must be considering I didn't overlook this text. I feel that the large, spacious, easily legible font, quotation marks and square format of the title were What drew me in.
Carlota Guerrero - ART DIRECTOR
The work communicates beung out of touch with reality and being one with nature. Specifially in The photographys from Solanges latest album where there are again a group of black women uniting together. Most of the shots are from wide angle which effortlessly symbolises freedom. This is because it makes the subject look very small in comparision to the bredth of the landscape behind. I feel relaxed looking the photos because it makes be realise how small each of us in the grand scheme of thing and how our issues and dilemas which may seem to large to us are infact minuscule. The photograph also makes me think of crisis? in third world countries and appreciate where i live and the privaleges i have access to. This source informs my work because the work to me is a visual representation of the word freedom.
Stylist: Shiona Turini
http://www.vogue.com/article/solange-knowles-new-videos-cranes-in-the-sky-dont-touch-my-hair
"the power of subtlety and restraint"
Reconstruction & Embellishment Design
http://www.modopactua.com/pdf/LEARN_Reconstruction_ENG.pdf
This document was very insightful as it gave suggestions for reconstructing and embellishing things. Its a Process I am not very familiar with so it allowed me to see examples of previous work and take inspiration from some of the methods of embellishment.was very insightful as it gave suggestions for reconstructing and embellishing things. Its a Process I am not very familiar with so it allowed me to see examples of previous work and take inspiration from some of the methods of embellishment.
Vera Wang (Asian Americans of Achievement) By Anne M. Todd
I feel like those of us iving in 1st world countries sometimes forget to appreciate where we live. A lot of people struggle to exercise religions and opinions and choice in peace. This snippet from this book shows how much of a blessing Wang considers living in America to be. I guess I can only understand to an extent because all I know is a bit about the one child policy and how they sometimes leave female babies on the floor because they are often not worth much to Chinese families. I think it's really weird tho because a lot of traditional chines people want sons but forget that for more sons and grandsons to be born a woman has to give birth to them. It's something I have always thought about but I will do some research into this in my spare time for person knowledge. This page of the book relates o my projects because it shows a well know fashion designer appreciating her life, freedom and the opportunities she now has. My favorite quote which will feature in my magazine ends with this phrase. "be old enough to appreciate your freedom and young enough to enjoy it.
The Photos above read freedom because of the connotations of water and nudity. Skinny dipping is an activity enjoyed by individuals whereby the go against social norms of being fully dressed..or at least covering up all gentiles and private areas in public. WHIle you can't see any genitles You can tell that she is naked. The model looking into the distance symbolizes her looking into what the future holds perhaps looking for hope. The model being alone makes you think that she is at one with her thought and ideas and trying to free herself from any stress nd worries. Water and the colour blue are long known to represent tranquility and calmness. The fact that half the woman's body is submerged in water could also mean that she is trying to submerge her emotions and feelings in 'calmness' and tranquility.The angle this photo is taken from suggests that someone is watching her but she doesn't know so she does feel intimidated of embarrassed again connoting the confidence she is expressing. This links to my work because I want people after reading my magazine to feel just as confident as the model, perhaps not to go into the sea naked but to do their equivalent, whatever made them feel free. The photo beneath of the woman in the pond with frogs spawn gives off a similar message. People don't usually lay naked in the water, let alone swim or be in the same water as plants. It's kind of seen as unclean. I guess because the plants are tickley I don't really know but If people were to see her doing this person would think she's weird. I guess here she is again exercising confidence to do exactly what she wants to do. The angle that this photo is taken form suggests that she cannot see who is above her and while they may be snooping she is still at peace because all she is focusing on is herself
The photo above shows the young girl using own hair to cover her eyes. I think this is effective as it is resourceful. Her facial expression makes me feel like she is talking, as a consequence from this image I read that she is talking to someone about what she is feeling while holding some berries in her hand as something to fidget with. WJether this be true o not this is my interpretation. I feel like This image show her desperately want to be freed of whatever she is talking about because she hasn't gone and found an eye mask or anything she has used what sh has her hair and the berries because she is trying to take control of her life so that she can be freed form whatever is bothering her. The portrait style of the photograph is interesting because usually in a portrait you whole face can be seen. This photographer HAS BROKEN A BASIC RULE and i love it haha. Freedom through rule breaking is what can be seen here.
While the models in the photograph below can also be see with their eyes closed i feel like a different effect is put across. The facial expression of the girls is kind of dreamy and lethargic, its kind of like all the girls are dreaming of the same thing, or are currently in the same dream. Another interpretation is that the girls are trying to cast a magic spell and all me whizzed off to the same party island but i guess that interpretation is more unlikely. The unison of dress creates a sense of unity within the photograph, much like all the girls using their hands to cover one another's face. The positioning of most of the girls face suggests this also. The location of the shoot, natural space connotes freedom because of the vast amount of space around them.
NIna Simone: Freedom Documentary (by Peter Rodis)
Text box
I Wish I Knew How it would Feel to be Free
Omar Victor Diop
The use of african print and jewellery is effective here because it accentuated her African heritage. In certain parts of Africa people do not wear shoes. Once at work a woman came into my store without any shoes on. I work in Westfield Stratford so I was puzzled because she had come all the way into the mall without shoes. Whether this was because she didnt have any to wear or because it was a personal choice is kind of disregarded because it is so different to the british culture. The lady didn't speak much English and appeared to be African. What i'm getting at here is that certain things become recognisable to certain tribes/ cultures which in term distinguish you from others. Similarly it can cause one to stand out, just like the way the lady did in my store. Regardless she stuck to what she wanted to do and did it with confidence.
JULLIETTE CASSIDY
I love the style of Cassidy's photography because the poses demonstrated by the model are so unique. As opposed to standard still photos Cassidy adds and flair and character. In a number of the photos natural movement is captured making the photographs appear more dynamic. Her un staged photos would work well with my concept because being who you are means being un-staged and unprepared. Cassidy's style further links to my project because dancing is a way of freely moving body (usually to music). https://georgannespruce.com/2012/02/01/dancing-to-free-our-emotions/ This website here speaks on how dance can be used to free our emotions. As an ex dance I feel like I can relate .
If someone puts their hand out it is usually considered a bit rude. It's a hand gesture that kind of symbolizes stop/ that's enough. It's a weird one because if you wave the hand it means bye bye. Misinterpretations I guess show freedom of thought. This links to the article I will write about how adolescent black girls in London are known for misinterpreting the way people look at them. A lot of the time it is assumed that when someone is staring at you for too long they are looking at you funny. But I have explored in the article how it might have instead been because they liked your makeup, jewelry or thought you were pretty. maybe people just want to good full look at your outfit and the only logical way to do that is to look you up and down. There is a possibility that they could be speaking bad things about you, but the likely-hood of that happening especially if you are looking (attractive) is very small. But even if they are hating... why do we care?
AL PERIERA
Al Periera is a pioneering hip-hop photographer from Brooklyn NY. Periera shoots music, sports, and special events. I love his photography because there is a lot of character communicated in his work. His use of depth of field and close up techniques allows him to hone in on the facial features and hand gestures minimising potential distraction from the backgrounds. This technique is heightened by the imperative use of eye contact by each of the models. The closeness of the models and the crop makes the stare from the model reach the depths of your soul, forcing the photograph to suck you in.
The use of hand gestures are potent in each of the photos. The scale of the gestures in comparison to the faces of the models allow interesting shapes to be created. This juxtaposed with the use of focus creates a polished outcome.
Pereira's photographic style informs my work because it allows the subects to be seen on an up and personal level. Subsequently all their imperfections i.e spots scars are available for all to see. This can be seen as exposing the models and allowing the audience to see theme in their truest form from a non-rose-tinted light.
I am particularly fond of the photo above on the left because the hand gesture that the girl is making is almost censored out because of the depth of field. You can try to work out the symbol that she is creating with her hands but is isnt very easy. This create a sense of ambiguity and curiosity. After looking hard you are able to decipher that she is doing the peace gesture; but because it is 'censored' it is possible for it to be interpreted as the fact that peace doesn't exist. Or could it mean that peace is so close to you that you cant see it; Suggesting that you have to make a conscious effort to make peace as the option may not be as visible as the opposing?